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Get into mode! A construction report.

3D printing and housing construction. In order to give you a little insight into these two topics, I have put the structure of the system into a small construction documentation.

In the end you get a streaming capable 2.1 system with an active amplifier. So you don't need an additional stereo system to listen to music on this system.

Have fun

In addition to the table in which the amplifier is hidden, there are also 2 90mm high satellites. These are also connected to the amplifier with a speaker cable.

Then let's put it together.

The table

The table itself only consists of a few parts. The active module is located in the box shown. All parts shown, including those made of copper, were created using 3D printing.

We start with cabling the terminals. To do this, the cables included with the amplifier are soldered to the soldering lugs of the terminals. The dots you see scattered around the edge are superglue. This will later connect it to the bottom of the table.

The copper grille provides fresh air in the table so that the amplifier receives some cooling.

The frame is still glued to the floor. The nuts for later screwing the active module are located in there. This location will no longer be accessible with a tool later. The frame and the nose on it help later when putting it on as the superglue sets extremely quickly.

The two parts are then brought together. After the feet have been glued on, the active module can also be used. The connections are labeled on the circuit board and the plugs click into place.

The satellites

The small satellites are a little more manageable. There is no crossover to be found in there because the amplifier has a DSP. This DSP only passes on the frequencies to the speaker that it can reproduce. It also allows corrections to the sound and adjustments to the room are possible

If you have completed this step, the worst is already over. The housings really aren't and attaching them to the solder lugs requires surgical hands. For whatever reason, unfortunately I only had a black cable. Just imagine if one of the lines was red.

The BF45S from Visaton is attached to the front with 2 screws. The cabling can then be completed. As with the amplifier, the front is then glued to the housing.

The subwoofer

The housing itself only consists of 3 parts. There are also little helpers, the terminal cover and the bass reflex tube, which I forgot in the picture.

The BR tube has been broken down into 3 parts to make it easier to print. Due to its length, it was provided with a 90° bend. Later on it received an optimized flow inlet, which cannot yet be seen in the picture.

A black tube is included in the scope of delivery.

With the help of the sleeve between the two raw sections, assembly is easy.

In the next step, the screw connections for the W100X are prepared. Here too I made another change in the following models. The white sleeves shown in which the nuts are located are no longer required for later models.

So that the W100X can breathe properly into the housing, the baffle was chamfered inwards. The black part at the bottom right is still an old version.

A short detour into the world of versions. In my shop you will always find a version number in the item name (e.g. V48). This version number comes from the design program I use. If you buy a kit and problems arise afterwards, I can also look for further developments of the system that you received at the time. By the way, we are at version 37 of the current subwoofer housing. Not every one of these 37 versions was built, but every jump in number hides a small improvement.

To install the terminal I had to choose a small plate that would be glued on later. This wasn't the case before, but the nuts couldn't be reached with any tool in the world. So that's no longer a problem.

We now see 2 very important things here. I placed a few small dots of superglue along the outer edge again. There is also a surrounding adhesive bead of sealing adhesive. The superglue fulfills the function of the screw clamp here. The sealing adhesive would like to dry for 2 hours, but the parts are fixed with the superglue in seconds and you can continue building straight away.

We then find the white feathers between the glued areas. These have 2 functions.

You position the individual parts in relation to each other.

They prevent adhesive from escaping to the outside of the housing.

If the glue runs down inside the housing during assembly, you have done everything right. Just let it dry!

The sealing adhesive creates a rubbery mass that you can easily remove after drying.

Then you just have to establish the connection to the W100X and then it can move into the housing.

There was also an improvement here, which almost borders on tuning. I developed a custom-fit rubber seal for the W100X. This seals the chassis against the housing in an airtight manner. The positions of the soldering lugs on the W100X require a relatively large installation opening. As a result, the inner part of the basket no longer seals with the housing. This is then done via the outer ring. As a result, the air whistles through the screw connection. This error is eliminated by the seal.

The setup is described in the amplifier instructions. If you want to operate the mode in WiFi, you can find the 4STREAM app in the manufacturer's app store. There you then have the option to set up the WLAN.

That would bring me to the end. I hope I was able to give you a little insight into the assembly. I estimate the construction time to be around 4 hours. This also includes a bit of drying time.

Have fun with the mode


Björn Kempf


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