Unfortunately, I was unable to determine exactly when the CT218 was developed. The closed version with slightly less volume appeared in Klang und Ton in 2005. Unfortunately, I couldn't find out whether the larger version with bass reflex was a useful further development from Blue Planet Acoustic. But I will also deal with the closed version. But that shouldn't be the topic.
Preface
You are probably excited and want to know what the eventual result of your efforts looks like and what it sounds like. The most important ingredient in making this case is patience. Take your time to read through this report, take your time to make the parts, take your time to assemble everything in peace. Then it will also succeed.
Have fun
Preparation
At this point I'll skip a few chapters and deal with the later assembly. If you want to make the case yourself, you can get the necessary files here:
In order to fully assemble this speaker you will also need the CT218BR kit from Blue Planet Acoustic as well as the appropriate screws, glue and terminal clamps as well as the filament, which we'll talk about in a moment.
Screws:
46 screws M4 x 20
4 screws M4 x 35
50 nuts M4
2 pairs of terminal clamps
1 tube of Pattex Crocodile all-purpose glue
Alternatively, you can also order these things as a set in my shop
Or you can grab the complete set straight away
Material planning
In total you need around 1500g of filament to make one housing. Plan some reserves in case something goes wrong during production.
My choice here is a combination of a dull orange with a moss green. What it will look like later, I have no idea, I hope it's good.
I've already lost some of my rolls, but the scales say "it's still fine".
The production of the printed parts
I start with the back part of the case (level 1) and load the corresponding file into the slicer. The front and back parts are identical. If you want, you can print the part twice
The recommended setting of the slicer is identical for all external housing parts. I like to position the seam in the middle of what will later be the inside. This means it has the least influence on the visible surfaces. With the appropriate material settings, you can then create all the rounded parts of the case.
When using a 0.4mm nozzle:
Layer height: 0.2mm
Wall lines: 3
Lower shell layers: 3
Upper shell layers: 3
Filling: 15%
When using a 0.6mm nozzle:
Layer height: 0.25mm
Wall lines: 2
Lower shell layers: 3
Upper shell layers: 3
Filling: 10%
The necessary temperatures for the print bed and the nozzle depend on the material used. Unfortunately I can't make any recommendations for this.
When it comes to printing speeds, you should take it slow. This gives you a homogeneous print image and great surfaces.
If the part looks exactly like this picture, then congratulations, the first part is finished.
When removing the part from the print bed, make sure that it has cooled completely. This avoids damage to the part and the print bed.
The next part is on the bottom. The print settings from the previously printed part can be adopted. We print "Level 3"
The seam should also be aligned on this part. Here too, the front and back parts are identical and can be printed twice.
The previously started part is still running for me. For the next print job, I pack the missing parts with rounding onto the printer.
level 1
Level 3
The smaller part of the lower level fits between the large part of the upper level of the housing.
I would only do this if the previous part comes from the printer as desired.
As is well known, pride comes before a fall, as it did for me. The roll with filament got jammed on the holder and therefore refused to work. :-(
It worked on the next attempt.
We are now dealing with the side parts (level 2 long). Here we have a special feature. All 3 parts are identical.
It is also possible to print the parts lying or standing. By printing the lying side part, you have the opportunity to transfer the surface of your print bed into the part. I always decide spontaneously for myself. I will print the 3 parts standing up.
I also put the short part, level 2 short, on the plate.
Since my front should also be orange, I went ahead with it. This is printed face down.
If you have problems making the thread on this part, it can help to reduce the layer thickness to 0.15mm.
The backboard is printed in the same orientation.
The front and back walls are successful.
I continue with the back cover. Since this is printed in green again, I inserted the appropriate roll into the printer.
In my case, the support also fits on the print bed. Since they are the same color, it just makes sense.
There is a thread in the lid. Here too, you can reduce the layer height if you have problems making the thread.
The lid and support are now finished. Then please test whether the lid can be easily screwed into the back wall. If this is not possible, reprint it by scaling it slightly smaller. Make sure to only scale the length and width, but not the height. Often 99% is enough for it to fit.
Now let's come to the last part for the case. The driver is attached to the front from the inside using a central screw.
If scaling was necessary for the cover, this is now also required for this screw. It has the identical thread.
This would be the final group photo in which all parts can be seen. Even with a reasonably fast printer it takes time, but as I said at the beginning, patience is one of the most important ingredients when making parts in a 3D printer.
Afterwards I will create instructions on how to assemble the parts. Please test the fit before gluing the parts together. I write in the assembly instructions how post-processing is possible.
HAPPY PRINTING
Björn Kempf