Ok, you have to deal with that first. I too have previously reached for a shelf when a bass reflex tube was required. After I had dealt with the piece of pipe a little, I noticed a few points that bothered me about it. I'll just list it clumsily:
It is almost impossible to get a flow-optimized pipe of the right length.
It is also almost impossible to get a bass reflex tube of the right length.
Many pipes cannot be installed flush with the baffle.
They are only available in black and made from inferior materials. There is therefore no freedom of design.
The installation is usually done by pressing it into the baffle. Expansion can be difficult or even impossible.
Somehow I couldn't understand why it was the way it was. These parts are a very important acoustic component. After all, it is the connection between the inside of the case and the room in which you listen to music. In addition to the sound waves, air is also pumped through the bass reflex tube. If there are too many sharp edges in the pipe used, they punish our hearing with unwanted hissing and puffing noises that we don't want.
Let's start with the topic of "flow".
The sound energy from the chassis compresses the air inside the speaker housing. To put it simply, sound energy is ultimately generated through these fluctuations in pressure and density. So our pipe struggles with constantly changing situations. In order to reduce the turbulence of the air and the associated background noise, the inlet and outlet of the pipe can be rounded.
That's what I did then. Since the air moves back and forth within the bass reflex tube, the inflow and outflow have the same radius. This meant that the topic of “flow” could be addressed. a checkmark must be placed.
How much can it be please?
It's always very easy in CAD. Anything can be drawn. The pretty piece of pipe is now drawn and can be made into any length. The green areas each measure approx. 15mm. Contrary to the classic methods for producing 3D printed parts, this tube is “spiralized”. The body is not produced in individual layers as usual; instead, the printer's nozzle performs a spiral movement. This creates a body without the usual seam.
The eye listens along
In order to be able to create flush installation, a flange was inserted into the construction (blue). Installation is then carried out using a cutout that fits the pipe.
How is it attached
There are 2 options
The blue flange is screwed on using a screw. However, this is only possible if the location where the pipe is located is still accessible. Since this is not always the case, there is an option.....
....screw the screw to the back of the baffle using a clamping ring. After the housing has been completed, the tube is then screwed from the front into the thread attached to the rear.
The pipes are now available in the following dimensions:
Pipe cross section | Inside diameter | Installation diameter | Flange diameter | Flange thickness |
706,858 mm² | 30mm | 50mm | 66mm | 3mm |
1256,637 mm² | 40mm | 60mm | 76mm | 3mm |
1963,495 mm² | 50mm | 70mm | 86mm | 3mm |
2827,433 mm² | 60mm | 80mm | 96mm | 3mm |
3848,451 mm² | 70mm | 90mm | 106mm | 3mm |
5026,548 mm² | 80mm | 100mm | 116mm | 3mm |
6361,725 mm² | 90mm | 110mm | 126mm | 3mm |
7853,982 mm² | 100mm | 120mm | 136mm | 3mm |
The minimum length is 45mm, the maximum length is 230mm. Up to this length the pipe is made from one piece. In addition, it is made of 2 parts.
