PRINTYOURBEAT turns 1 year old I dedicate this special project to the 1-year anniversary of PRINTYOURBEAT. The past few months have been extremely turbulent and also very educational. I never thought I would have to run an online shop, let alone build a website. The great feedback from you has motivated me to keep going, and now it's time to release the next project into the world. How does "build live" work? For the "Build Live" campaign, I have placed a product in the shop, namely this one: If the product is not yet available, you can sign up for a notification there, it doesn't cost you anything. This way you will receive information as soon as it starts, you won't receive any advertising! As soon as the project starts, you can use this set to buy all the parts you need to build a pair of CUBE active speakers. You can see what is included in this set in the scope of delivery. After you have bought the CUBE set, I will send you a voucher. This reduces the purchase price for the print data to €0. The event will start on October 7th, 2024. Both the necessary printing data and the assembly instructions will be published gradually. The campaign ends with the completion of the assembly instructions. What is not included - and why? I would also like to briefly address this. I have to assemble and ship the components for all the kits myself, which takes some time. I don't have some of the parts in stock. What's not included can be found in any well-stocked hardware store, or you can order it online. You can also start making the housings as soon as you've organized the missing items. Not included: adhesive To start with the assembly, you will need Pattex 100% glue . You will need around 600g of it. I recommend the 100g tubes. Crepe tape 1 roll of 25mm wide masking tape. I have had the best experience with the tape from TESA . material The material necessary for production (8Kg PLA) is not included. And what else do you need: A 3D printer. This should have a print bed with dimensions of 220x220mm. The parts are very easy to manufacture. If I counted correctly, 74 parts are needed for the speaker with amplifier and 73 parts for the speaker without amplifier. Unfortunately, I cannot give any precise information on the printing time, as this depends on the material and the printer used. What are the special features of the CUBE The CUBE is a broadband loudspeaker. Only one loudspeaker chassis is installed in the housing. This reproduces all frequencies, both the high and low tones. I see this type of loudspeaker construction as modern, as the sound experience fits in very well with today's listening habits. In addition, this design requires very little power and can also be used effectively with smaller amplifiers. The CUBE active has such an amplifier built in, in this case the ARYLIC UP2STREAM Stereo. So a 2-channel amplifier that will supply both speakers. This is mounted on the back of the speaker and therefore does not take up any additional space in the living room. Another special feature is the built-in DSP (digital sound processor). This DSP means that the usual crossover is not required. And what's more, the sound can be finely tuned. Since this requires software and measuring equipment, I'll take care of this part. You get a fully configured module! All you have to do is set up the network connection. The integration into the home network is achieved either via a cable connection or via WiFi. As soon as this is complete, the common music streaming services such as Spotify etc. are available, provided you have a subscription. BPA laid the foundation for the CUBE. The developer Nicklas Baur developed the BB5 monitor, which also uses a W5-2106. In comparison to this specification and the possibilities offered by 3D printing, the housing had to undergo some sound adjustments. With a width of 300mm and a height of 400mm, the housing is very compact. The depth is 200mm. The internal volume is slightly larger than the BB5 monitor, which is why the tuning of the bass reflex tube was also slightly changed. The bass reflex tube has also been given curves to reduce flow noise to a minimum. The surrounding cubes give the housing an unusually high level of rigidity. The individual connections between the cubes stabilize the housing parts, which means that the wall thickness can be reduced to 0.6mm <-- that's really zero point six. This is only possible with 3D printing! The housing parts have another special feature. The usual layer lines are not visible due to the design. You will see how this works later in the construction report. Curious? Then find out about the availability of the CUBE or subscribe to the newsletter. lg PYB

TILE - English for "tile" is pronounced "part". This case got its name from its outer skin. This consists of printed tiles and gives the case its special appearance. What do we need for assembly and manufacturing? : The Base 3.AL loudspeaker kit from Blue Planet Acoustic Approximately 1250g of material per housing, of which 750g are needed for the tiles 6 Allen screws M4x20mm with matching nuts 2 pairs of gold contact plugs with M5 thread soldering iron Allen key adhesive 20 spring clips 3D printer The spring clips Spring clamps are used for later assembly. The clamps shown here are available in packs of 20 at a good price. The shape of the clamps is also ideal for holding the connection securely. You can get them here . The adhesive For bonding, I recommend Pattex Crocodile . This adhesive is the ideal partner for secure and sealing bonding of PLA parts. 2 tubes are more than enough for mounting 2 housings. The printer, if you don’t already have one The printer for this project should have a usable printing area of 220mm x 220mm. I have an Anycubic Kobra 2 pro because it has some advantages compared to its counterparts of the same size and design. There will be a video about this. Preliminary considerations There are some design options that I would like to show you briefly in the following gallery. Maybe you like some of them and would like to recreate them: Now it starts We need to make the first parts. The parts or the part I am talking about are shown in red in the picture. In the first step, we produce all parts that have a thread. These parts are printed with different settings than the rest. Threaded sleeve and screw Both the threaded sleeve and the screw should be printed with a layer thickness of 0.1 mm. The threaded sleeve is printed without infill because it is a very thin-walled part. The screw is aligned with the thread facing downwards on the print bed. With a 0.4mm nozzle, 2 wall lines and 15% infill are completely sufficient. You can decide the number of lower and upper layers yourself, I would recommend 2-3 layers. In my first attempt to print the threaded sleeve, the part came loose. To counteract this, cleaning with detergent and warm water and using a 3D varnish as an adhesive helps. Alternatively, you can use a brim to increase the contact surface or reduce the printing speed. Frame baffle For the baffle, the layer height is increased again to 0.2mm. I print this part with 2 wall lines and 20% infill. You should set 3 upper and lower layers to achieve the necessary stability later. You should place the seam of the front on one of the lower edges so that it is not visible later. Assembling the front The 3 parts of the front are then assembled according to this illustration. The threaded sleeve is glued to the baffle at the marked points. Allow the adhesive to dry for at least 2 hours For later assembly we still need the cover ring. We can print this with the previously selected settings for the baffle. However, it is only needed at the end of the assembly. More pieces The other frames will then be printed using the settings for the front. You will need: 2 x side wall 2 x frame cover and back panel 1 x floor 1 x lid for base Preparing the soil Before gluing the shells of the housing together, you should insert the nuts on the inside of the base. To do this, simply use a screw to push the nut flush into the base. Assembling the housing parts To ensure that this step is successful, you should follow the following steps carefully. The orange clamping jaws should be removed before use. They will only be a hindrance later Another note about the glue: If any glue gets on surfaces that will be visible later during the following steps, just let it dry. Once it has dried, it will be much easier to remove. With the help of the spring clips the complete housing is now assembled, without glue! In this state, the individual parts are aligned until everything fits together. We now lay the case on its side and remove all the clips that hold the side panel. The adhesive is now applied to the connecting surfaces of the front and rear walls. No adhesive is applied to the lid and base! The side panel is then reinserted and secured with the spring clips. The second side wall is then glued in the same order and on the same surfaces. Now we turn the case upside down and remove all the clips that hold the bottom. The adhesive is now applied to all 4 adhesive surfaces. The base is then put back in place and secured with the spring clips. We repeat this process with the lid of the housing. After that it should look like this again, but now all 12 surfaces are glued together. The case should now dry for 12 hours. The tiles For now, I've decided on this design in my example. I say "for now" because I want to see how the black harmonizes with the gold. The back wall is a good introduction to the world of tiles. If the setup for the printer isn't right yet, it might not be so bad. For the back wall you need: 6 x tile 2 x Tile Terminal Before gluing the tiles into the back wall, I would try a "dry run" to make sure that everything fits. The holes in the back wall can be used to get the tiles out of the back wall again. A ring made of adhesive is applied to the area of the holes to seal them. The tiles can then be inserted. I chose a slightly different pattern. When arranging the tile for the terminal, make sure that it also sits on the bottom of the housing. The tiles for the top and side walls can now be printed. For the lid you need: 8 x tile For the side walls: 16 x tiles each This is what the interim result looks like. Now the front is missing. The following tiles are required for the front: 4 x Tile V2 baffle 4 x Tile V2 BR The tiles on the front require a little more feeling to install than the tiles on the other sides. Be patient and take the time you need. Start with the tiles in which the bass reflex tube will later be located. Now that the front is glued, you should give the case some time (2 hours) to dry. The case will only be strong enough after 12 hours. Then the glue will be completely hardened. Then the cover ring comes into use. The adhesive film should be as thin as possible. To assemble, you can place the case on the front and insert the ring. Alternatively, you can also use the brackets. On some materials the clamps will leave scratches in the surface, like in my case on the black parts. Give the case 12 hours to dry. Then screw the chassis into the housing with the nut. You should solder the cables beforehand. The adhesive for the bass reflex tube is applied to the tube behind the collar. After it has been inserted, you should wait an hour for the adhesive to dry. Then you can continue. The Bondum is now laid out on the edge. Behind the bass reflex tube there is a piece of insulation wool in which the blocking circuit is also rolled. The parts are very light and do not need to be screwed together. The terminals should also be connected. Now the floor gets another layer of insulating wool. Then the lid can be screwed on. Have fun recreating it. Björn Kempf

With DYNAMIC I have put together my first public playlist on Spotify. What at first sounds like a jumble of musical styles is actually a selection of very dynamic and bass-heavy pieces of music. These have gradually been added to my own collection and are very popular at listening evenings. Now you can hear them too, and maybe your neighbors too. In some of the tracks there are very interesting sequences of tones of varying depth. Ideally you can hear these tones at the same volume. There are now 4 different scenarios that can occur: All low tones are equally loud - great, that's perfect The deeper the tone, the quieter it becomes - that's ok Different deep tones are not equally loud - that is not good Deep tones are not audible - you need new speakers Follow my profile on Spotify to discover more playlists and share this playlist with other music-loving friends. Thank you ! A notice: Some songs may push your speakers to their limits. Your hearing will also suffer if music is played too loudly. Think about yourself and your material. Click here for the playlist

ORB Filter by Custom Filter Druckdaten Bausatz Startklar Quick View Spielfertig PYB ORB SET Silber Spielfertig (Paar) Price €676.94 Sales Tax Included | zzgl. Versand Quick View Montageset ORB Price €22.00 Sales Tax Included | zzgl. Versand Quick View Gehäuse + Komponenten PYB ORB SET Silber incl. Gehäusebausatz (Paar) Price €556.94 Sales Tax Included | zzgl. Versand Quick View Gehäuse + Komponenten PYB ORB SET Kupfer incl. Gehäusebausatz (Paar) Price €556.94 Sales Tax Included | zzgl. Versand Quick View Spielfertig PYB ORB Kupfer Spielfertig (Paar) Price €676.94 Sales Tax Included | zzgl. Versand Quick View Druckdaten ORB Druckdaten Price €82.80 Sales Tax Included

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